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bird breeds

Macaw

Macaws are known as the giants of the parrot world. The hyacinth macaw is the longest parrot, with a head to tail length of nearly 40 inches. Macaws have long tail feathers as well as big beaks. Macaw adaptations include large, curved, powerful beaks designed to crack open hard nuts and seeds. These parrots have a long, streamlined physique and colorful feathering, ranging from the hyacinth macaw’s hyacinth blue to the scarlet macaw’s scarlet red coloring. Some macaw species have bare facial patches.

Macaws are informally classified into two groups: large macaws and mini macaws. The large macaws include those of the Ara, Anodorhynchus, and Cyanopsitta genera. This “blue macaws” group includes the hyacinth, along with the critically endangered Lear’s macaw and Spix’s macaw. The mini macaws are much smaller and include those from the genera Diopsittaca, Orthopsittaca, and Primolius.

Although there are 18 living species of macaws, not all commonly get adopted by people. The commonly kept companion macaw species include the following, listed by common name and scientific name: blue-and-gold macaw (Ara ararauna), green-winged macaw (Ara chloropterus), Hahn’s macaw (Diopsittaca nobilis nobilis), hyacinth macaw (Anodorhynchus hyacinthinus), scarlet macaw (Ara macao), military macaw (Ara militaris), and severe macaw (Ara severus). Some of these species have other common names. For example, the blue-and-gold macaw is sometimes called the blue-and-yellow macaw, and the military macaw is sometimes called the chestnut-fronted macaw.

Native Region / Natural Habitat

Macaws are native to the southern portion of North America (Mexico) plus Central America and South America. Evidence shows that the Caribbean also had native macaw species, which are now extinct, such as the Cuban macaw (Ara tricolor) and the Saint Croix macaw (Ara autochthones). They inhabit rainforests, as well as grasslands and grassy woodland-type areas. Macaws, and other parrot species, native to the Amazon basin, such as Peru, have been observed eating from clay licks (clay at exposed river bank), which researchers believe is a way for the parrots to neutralize toxins found in some of the foods they consume in the wild.

Some species of macaw are endangered or at risk of extinction, according to the IUCN Red List. Nine species are currently at the most risk. Three macaws are critically endangered: glaucous macaw (Anodorhynchus glaucus), blue-throated macaw (Ara glaucogularis), and Spix’s macaw (Cyanopsitta spixii). Three macaws are endangered: Lear’s macaw (Anodorhynchus leari), great green macaw (Ara ambiguus), and red-fronted macaw (Ara rubrogenys). Three macaws are vulnerable: hyacinth macaw (Anodorhynchus hyacinthinus), military macaw (Ara militaris), and blue-headed macaw (Primolius couloni).

Care & Feeding


A macaw needs a cage tall enough to prevent its tail feathers from hitting the cage bottom, which can cause the tail feathers to bend or break. Overall, a macaw needs a much larger cage and play stand than other parrot species, so a potential owner should take space considerations into account.

In their natural habitat, macaws feed on native seeds, fruits, flowers, leaves, palm nuts, figs, nectar, and, in some regions, clay from exposed river banks. The dietary needs of some macaw species differ from that of other parrots because they need more fat in their diet. The wild macaw’s diet tends to be high in fat, which is acceptable for a bird that spends its day flying through the rainforest, finding food, nesting, and rearing chicks.

Companion macaws tend to have a much easier life than their wild counterparts, but they miss out on the ability to forage for their food, a behavior that comes naturally. Lafeber’s bird foods are ideal for the lively macaw, a bird that appreciates the opportunity to tear apart its meals.

Personality & Behavior

Macaws are a force to be reckoned with. Everything about them is big, from their voices to their attitudes. Even the mini macaws are big — on the inside! Colorful and often raucous, they call attention to themselves even when quiet. Although, to the uninitiated, macaws seem formidable and may bluster and carry on, those who share their lives with these magnificent friends know that they contain surprisingly loving hearts and sensitive natures.

Macaws can be quite playful and love toys they can chew up, especially items made of wood. A pet macaw will need a consistent supply of appropriate toys and other safe items to destroy. The cost of a stable supply of toys should be factored in to the monthly pet budget. Macaws are intelligent birds that also thrive on activities designed to challenge them, such as foraging activities. Foraging involves searching for food or time spent enjoying food. Nutri-Berries by Lafeber Company satisfy the need for foraging while providing superior nutrition.

A macaw might make a game out of spooking people by leaning forward and lunging toward them. This is not done as an aggressive gesture but more for the reaction it causes. In general, a well-socialized, positively interacted with macaw can be a gentle pet. Macaws from the Ara genus, such as green-winged, scarlet, and blue-and-gold macaws, have a bare facial patch, which turns flush when the bird is overly excited.

Speech & Sound

Large macaws have equally large vocalizations, and their squawks and screeches can be quite loud and ear piercing. A potential macaw owner needs to take a macaw’s large sound into consideration, especially if he or she lives in an apartment and/or has nearby neighbors. Macaws can be taught to talk and they might also be inclined to whistle or to imitate sounds and noises they hear inside and outside the home.

Health & Common Conditions

Macaws can be prone to feather-destructive behaviors. If a complete veterinary exam rules out medical causes of feather plucking, boredom and/or lack of appropriate mental stimulation can be a cause. Offer your macaw an enriched environment with plenty of opportunities for play and exercise, such as a climbing nets and ropes, in addition to toys.

Macaws are also more susceptible to proventricular dilatation disease (PDD), psittacine beak and feather disease (PBFD), psittacosis, beak malocclusion, and aspergillosis. Regular health checkups by an avian veterinarian can help diagnose and treat many disease processes early on.

It is normal for a macaw to sneeze a few times a day to clear out dust or dander from its nares, which might be accompanied by a clear discharge. If the sneezing is persistent and/or the discharge is not a clear color, contact your avian veterinarian.

Get a Macaw

Would a macaw be a good pet? That depends on you. Adding a macaw to your family means considering if you have the room, the time, the personality, and other factors that make a macaw a good companion for you. Because macaws need spacious accommodations and are long-lived, adding a macaw to the family needs to be thoroughly thought through.

Macaws are most likely to be sold in avian-specialty stores or from bird breeders. They are also sometimes available for adoption from avian rescue organizations.
prix/$20.26
off/-20%
bird breeds

Alexandrine parakeet

The Alexandrine parakeet, also called the Alexandrine parrot, is a bright, gentle, independent, medium-sized bird known to be hardy and relatively quiet compared to their Indian ring-neck cousins. This bird is a favorite among fanciers and is becoming more popular in the pet trade than in past years due to its growing popularity with bird breeders.

The Alexandrine parakeet is named after emperor Alexander The Great (born 356 B.C. ), who is said to have had numerous Alexandrine parrots exported to Europe and the Mediterranean, where it was popular with nobility and the upper class.

Native Region / Natural Habitat

The Alexandrine parakeet is native to East India to Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh in the South, Sri Lanka.

Care & Feeding

Alexandrine parakeets need a cage tall enough to accommodate their long tail feathers, which can be up to 14 inches in length. Alexandrines, like most parrots, are chewing machines and need lots of softwood toys to keep them happy. Add on a few rope toys and a couple of indestructible acrylic toys, and the Alexandrine is ready to play. Puzzle toys that hide nuts or dried fruit can be especially entertaining for an Alexandrine parakeet, which is always ready for a challenge.

Alexandrine parakeets will generally live peacefully with others of its kind but might be aggressive toward other birds. The Alexandrine parakeet’s beak is powerful and large, so keep smaller birds out of your pet’s reach. If you have a “cousin” bird, like an Indian ring-necked parakeet, you can let the birds play, but you should not let the two species breed. All in all, the Alexandrine is a lovable, intelligent parrot that can live more than 30 years if cared for properly.

Alexandrine parakeets’ diet should consist of a pelleted base diet, as well as fruits and vegetables. 

Personality & Behavior

The Alexandrine parakeet is playful and can be quite talkative, able to amass an impressive vocabulary. This bird can be a wonderful family pet. Alexandrines are loyal birds, and often bond with multiple family members, unlike a few other species. They are quick to learn tricks and are capable acrobats.

The novice and the experienced bird keeper will enjoy the Alexandrine, but this bird may not be for the very beginner, though someone who has kept a parakeet or other small bird healthy and happy may be ready for the easy-going Alexandrine parakeet. Alexandrine parakeets are not known to be nippy, in spite of their huge beak, and are extremely affectionate when given consistent attention. Because Alexandrines are highly affectionate and love their human “flock,” they need a person who is able to give them a great deal of time out of the cage.

Speech & Sound

The Alexandrine parakeet can emit a powerful screech that is said to be deeper than that of its close cousin, the Indian ring-necked parakeet. Alexandrine parakeets have excellent mimicking abilities and can copy just about any sound.

Health & Common Conditions

Alexandrine parakeets are relatively healthy birds; however they are susceptible to Polyomavirus, pssitacosis, apergillosis and bacterial infections.

Get an Alexandrine Parakeet

Alexandrine parakeets are typically available from avian-specialty stores and bird breeders. The nominate Alexandrine parakeet has all-green plumage and an immense beak. As with many birds in the ringneck family, color mutations are becoming more widely available to consumers, including the lutino (yellow) and the blue mutations. The Alexandrine comes in five distinct subspecies, some slightly larger or smaller.
prix/$25.26
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bird care

Tips to avoid poisoning your bird

Pune Draker

KEEP TWEETY SAFE WITH
BIRD POISON PREVENTION TIPS

If you share your home with a companion avian, you know how sensitive your feathered friend is to his environment. Birds, for example, are more adversely affected by smoke and gases than dogs, cats and other mammals, and special considerations must be taken to keep them in the “sing” of things. In honor of Adopt A Rescued Bird Month, we asked Dr. Jill A. Richardson of the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (APCC) for some smart tips to keep your home safe and secure for your pet:


“Birds are highly sensitive to inhalant fumes,” explains Richardson. Please avoid exposing yours to fumes from overheated Teflon- or Silverstone-coated pans, automobile exhaust, tobacco smoke, glues and paints, insecticidal fumigants, perfume and hair spray.

Most pesticide baits contain ingredients, such as grains and sugars, that can attract your bird. Should you need to use rat and mouse bait or ant and roach traps, take care to place them in areas that are inaccessible to your pet.

Keep all prescription and over-the-counter drugs out of your bird’s reach, preferably in closed cabinets. Says Richardson, “Pain killers, cold medicines, anti-cancer drugs, vitamins and diet pills are all examples of human medications that can be lethal to birds, even in small doses.”

Never allow your bird access to areas in which cleaning agents are being used or stored. Should your pet ingest them, he could suffer from a range of symptoms, depending on the substance, from mild stomach upset to severe burns of the tongue, mouth and crop.

Polly may want a cracker, but she certainly shouldn’t have the following foods that are potentially harmful to pet birds of all species:
  • avocados
  • alcoholic beverages
  • chocolate (baking, dark, milk, semi-sweet)
  • coffee (grounds, beans)
  • onions and onion powder
  • potato leaves and stems (green parts)
  • rhubarb leaves
  • salt
  • tea
  • tomato leaves and stems (green parts)
  • tobacco (cigarettes, cigars, snuff, chewing tobacco)
  • yeast dough
If you suspect your bird has gotten into a potentially poisonous substance, call your veterinarian or the APCC’s emergency hotline–1-888-4-ANI-HELP–for round-the-clock telephone assistance. For more information on poison prevention, visit APCC online.

© 2002 ASPCA

Courtesy of
ASPCA
424 East 92nd St.
New York, NY 10128-6804
(212) 876-7700
bird care

Feed your pet bird

Michael Krinsley, D.V.M., ASPCA

People keep many species as companion animals, each having its own dietary needs. Here at The ASPCA’s Bergh Memorial Animal Hospital, I treat the “frequent flyers,” so to speak. The most frequently seen are in the psittacine family, which includes macaws, parrots, conures, cockatiels and budgies. For this reason, I will focus on providing a balanced diet for this group of birds.

Still in its infancy, the study of nutrition for pet birds saw its beginnings within the last 10 years. Few studies have been completed, so we have had to combine data gathered from poultry scientists, ornithologists, successful aviculturists and veterinarians to help us improve our birds’ diets. We do know that all companion birds need protein, carbohydrates, fat, vitamins and minerals for good health, but the exact combination of particular food items still can only be estimated.

What’s on the Menu?

Placing a variety of seeds and other foods in a dish and expecting your feathered companion to pick out a balanced diet doesn’t work. Birds do not have the ability to choose a proper diet, so it’s up to the owner to provide balanced nutrition. Bird pellets are the most well-balanced, complete food available today. Your local pet supply store most likely carries several brands of these pellets, which are similar in appearance and design to dry dog and cat food.

Vegetables and fruits are great additions to your bird’s balanced diet, but do not comprise a complete diet in themselves. Choose vegetables such as corn, broccoli, carrots, yams and peas rather than iceberg lettuce or celery, which are lacking in nutrients and simply are a source of water and fiber.

Apples, grapes and bananas make good fruit choices. Avoid feeding your bird citrus fruits unless specifically recommended by your avian veterinarian.

Keep the amount of table food you offer to a minimum. Never give your birds chocolate, wine and liquor, caffeinated beverages, avocados or very spicy foods. These are potential dangers.

Keep the Change

While they can be a nutritious and important food in a bird’s diet, no single seed or seed mix can supply a bird with all of his dietary requirements. Birds in the wild will eat seeds exclusively only when other foods are unavailable, as a sort of survival diet. When food supplies are abundant, birds will eat a wide array of food items to correct any imbalance in their diets, including insects, worms, fruits, vegetables and grains.

Unfortunately, many birds have been raised on, or are “addicted to,” all-seed diets. All efforts to convert such picky eaters to a healthy diet such as bird pellets become extremely difficult, because birds usually are resistant to change. This resistance may be explained in part by an instinctive, protective mechanism that serves to prevent birds living in the wild from eating poisonous substances. And, birds initially may not recognize new foods as edible substances. In many cases, an animal may choose a small variety of foods or one single seed such as sunflower and refuse to eat anything else. Such an imbalance is an invitation to disease. Sunflower seeds alone, for example, are extremely deficient in nutrients and very high in fat.

Wild birds naturally alter their diet seasonally as one food supply becomes scarce and another becomes available. Nature’s gradual change of food substances better allows them to adjust to the new diet. A similar slow technique of adjusting your birds’ diet to pelleted foods can be used at home:

* Step One: To effect a healthy change-over in birds who are “seed junkies,” begin by getting your bird eating a good-quality seed mix if he is not on one now. You can distinguish these from poor mixes in several ways. Healthier seed mixes minimize or eliminate fat-filled sunflower seeds and peanuts. Instead, they include a large list of ingredients such as oats, corn, hemp, rape seed, flax and various types of millet. Often, prime-quality mixes also are vitamin- and mineral-fortified.

If your bird’s seed mix is not enriched, you can add powdered vitamins. But despite what you hear in pet stores and read on vitamin labels, do not add the supplements to your bird’s drinking water. This can alter the taste and color of the water, thus discouraging him from drinking. Instead, sprinkle a small amount of powdered vitamins on the seeds. Add supplements only if your bird’s food is not vitamin- and mineral-fortified.

* Step Two: Try layering new foods — avian pellets, dry breakfast cereals such as puffed rice, puffed wheat and puffed millet and even whole grain breads — with layers of the familiar seeds. Be sure the cereals and breads contain protein, vitamins and minerals and are very low in fat and sugar. This technique usually works, although it may take weeks or even months to see a change. Patience is extremely important.

* Step Three: Add layers of the various vitamin- and mineral-enriched bird “nuggets” and “cakes” now on the market. These products, composed of seeds and fully balanced foods, can be crushed and added in layers with the seeds and foods introduced in Step Two.

As these cakes and nuggets already contain the familiar seeds, your birds may accept them if you are lucky, thus eliminating the need to add seed layers in between. However, in most instances, you will be adding cakes and nuggets to seed-only layers, which you can slowly eliminate. Eventually your bird will be eating seeds already contained in the nuggets or cakes alone.

* Step Four: The final step is to add layers of pelleted food in between the cakes and nuggets, which you will then eliminate over time.

If you are able to convert your birds to the pelleted diet, you have done very well. Don’t despair if you have succeeded only in changing over to cakes or nuggets — already you have improved your bird’s diet considerably. To avoid this tedious process altogether, I recommend that owners start all young birds on pellets as soon as possible after weaning.

In the wild, birds eat mainly in the morning and evening, so you can mimic this natural pattern by feeding your birds two meals a day. And never restrict food in debilitated birds. Considering the wide variety of healthy choices available for your bird’s diets, they no longer must suffer from poor nutrition.
Serving SuggestionsGrit is considered unnecessary in pet bird diets. In certain cases, it has been responsible for impaction and even death.

Chlorine added to municipal drinking water supplies does not seem to be a problem for birds, but bottled or distilled water may have certain advantages.

Avoid giving cooked foods that have been left out for long periods of time. These can be very high in bacteria.

Obesity in birds can be avoided by eliminating the high-fat seeds, letting your companions out of the cage for daily exercise and avoiding overfeeding.
rabbit care

rabbit’s Need Basics

 Mary E. Cotter, Ed.D.

Feeding:

The 3 most important foods for a rabbit are hay, hay, and HAY! Contrary to popular belief, rabbits do not need salt licks, vitamins, or hard wooden objects to wear their teeth down. Teeth are kept worn to a proper length by the silicate and lignin content of grass and grass. hays. Do not offer rabbits plants, vegetation, or tree branches unless you are. sure they are not harmful.

Limited pellets (plain only! no seeds, nuts, colored tidbits): 1/4 cup, per 5 ft. of body weight per day

Dark -green leafy veggies daily if possible (good job for volunteers!). Good veggies: all leaf lettuces, dandelion greens, kale, collards, turnip greens, mustard greens, parsley, cilantro, basil, Avoid: cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, brussel sprouts, spinach.

Limited amounts of sweet veggies such as carrots.

Occasional treats in very low quantities: slice of apple, slice of banana, a -few, hulled sunflower seeds, 2-inch piece of carrot. For more frequent treats, use fragrant herbs such as cilantro, parsley, arugula, basil, et al. Do not feed bread or-other high-carbohydrate foods, as they can. lead to intestinal dysbiosis.

Fresh water, changed daily. Double check to see that steel tall in bottle is working properly each. time you hang the bottle. Bowl (changed daily) encourages more drinking, but bowl. must be heavy crock to prevent tipping.

Housing:

Indoor housing is essential. Domestic rabbits can die from heart attacks at the very approach. of a predator. Other outdoor concerns: fleas (anemia, West Nile virus), ticks, VHD, Baylisacaris procyonis (raccoon roundworm), fly strike

Intact male and female rabbits must be separated by sex and housed separately. “Accidental” litters occur is shelters with distressing frequency. A doe can have a litter every 30 days, and can get pregnant within 30 mins. of giving birth. Immature rabbits can be hard to sex. Ask for expert help if you have any doubts.

Wire flooring can cause and/or exacerbate hock problems, which can become serious enough to require amputation. Use ordinary cat or dog cages, or cover wire flooring with sections of newspaper (can be messy if bunny digs) or plain, brown corrugated cardboard. If dog cages are used, check to be sure the spacing between the cage wires is small enough to prevent a rabbit’s head or limbs from getting stuck.

Place rabbits away from extreme heat. Avoid placing rabbits on top tier of cages if possible -especially in summer.

Avoid placing rabbits in the same room with barking dogs if possible. Rabbits usually adapt quickly to barking heard from a distance. Avoid placing rabbits across from (or in full view of) cats.

Litter-trained rabbits are more easily adopted. Shelter rabbits will usually use litterboxes readily, if the box is place in the corner the rabbit has chosen for urination. Line litterbox with section of newspaper and fill with grass hay. Dump daily. Avoid pine and cedar chips as bedding or litter material; aromatic phenols can potentiate liver enzymes and irritate respiratory tract.

A cardboard “hidey box” placed in the cage can make a rabbit feel more secure. However, this may increase territorial behaviors – particularly in unspayed females. Boxes are most useful in wire cages, where the rabbit has no other means of hiding himself.

General Care and Socialization:

If possible, have rabbits spayed/neutered before adoption. If this is not possible, include spay/neuter as part of adoption contract, and take deposit to be returned upon presentation of proof of surgery. Besides preventing accidental litters, spaying prevents uterine cancer (which can reach 50-80% as rabbits age), and neutering reduces spraying and other hormonedriven behaviors.

Converted dog runs make great rabbit exercise areas. Use donated carpet scraps (or inexpensive, rubber-backed runners) to offer the rabbit traction for running and jumping.

If possible, talk to the rabbit calmly and stroke him daily. Rabbits are highly social animals who thrive on attention and social interaction. Many rabbits are very overtly affectionate, and will nuzzle and lick their handlers. Others are shyer and more “laid back.”

Do not approach the rabbit from directly in front (unfortunately, shelter cages leave you few alternatives). Rabbits have laterally placed eyes and cannot see up close, directly in front of themselves.

When working with an unfamiliar rabbit, pat the rabbit gently between the eyes, til he relaxes, before picking him up. Never attempt to lift a rabbit who is struggling. Rabbits can easily break their own backs attempting to get away from perceived predators (us!).


Lift the rabbit by supporting his hindquarters and forequarters simultaneously. If the rabbit struggles to get down once lifted, lower yourself (and the rabbit) as close as possible to the floor to prevent injury.

Rabbits love “projects” – i.e. objects in their environments that they can move and manipulate. These provide stimulation and exercise. Offer plain brown, corrugated cardboard boxes for chewing and “interior desecration.” Plain, non-toxic wooden or hard plastic baby toys can also be appropriate “toys” for rabbits.

Always remember that rabbits are a prey species. The more predictable their environment and the more securely they are handled, the more relaxed and sociable they become. Many rabbits relinquished to shelters have been severely traumatized in their former environments. They may have learned to survive by nipping or boxing. These behaviors can usually be eliminated by correct handling and social interaction.

Rabbits are highly territorial, and may also attempt to nip or box when their territory is “invaded.” This is especially true of unspayed females. This behavior is entirely normal, and is usually greatly reduced by spaying/neutering. If a rabbit boxes when you offer food or clean the cage, place one hand on the rabbit’s head and gently press and rub, while using the other hand to remove food bowl, litterbox, etc.

A rabbit who has suddenly stopped eating or whose eating patterns have suddenly changed needs immediate veterinary attention.

© Mary E. Cotter, Ed.D. 2002

Courtesy of
Mary E. Cotter, Ed.D.
House Rabbit Society

rabbit care

Care for Domestic Rabbits

HSUS

Rabbits may be easy to love, but they’re not quite as easy to care for. These lovable, social animals are wonderful companions for people who take the time to learn about their needs. Though providing care for these adorable creatures isn’t difficult, rabbits have a long lifespan—more than 10 years—and many specific care requirements. Anyone considering adding a rabbit to their family should carefully research books and web sites on rabbit care before making a decision. Here are some quick tips to get you started:

Home Sweet Home

Indoors or Outdoors?
Every rabbit owner should know that the safest place for a rabbit to live is indoors. Rabbits should never be kept outdoors! Domestic rabbits are different from their wild relatives—they do not tolerate extreme temperatures well, especially in the hot summer months. Even in a safe enclosure, rabbits are at risk from predators. Merely the sight or sound of a nearby wild animal can cause rabbits so much stress that they can suffer a heart attack and literally die of fear.

Caged or Free to Roam?
Whether you decide to let your rabbit roam free in your entire home or just a limited area, it is important that you make everything rabbit-safe. One little bunny can easily find a whole lot of trouble in an average home. Because rabbits like to chew, make sure that all electrical cords are out of reach and outlets are covered. Chewing through a plugged-in cord can result in severe injury or even death. Their chewing can also result in poisoning if the wrong objects are left in the open or in unlocked low cabinets. Aside from obvious toxins like insecticides, rodenticides, and cleaning supplies, be aware that common plants such as aloe, azalea, Calla lily, Lily of the Valley, philodendron, and assorted plant bulbs can be poisonous to rabbits.

If kept in a cage, rabbits need a lot of room to easily move around. A rabbit’s cage should be a minimum of five times the size of the rabbit. Your rabbit should be able to completely stretch out in his cage and stand up on his hind legs without bumping his head on the top of the cage. Additionally, cages with wire flooring are hard on rabbits’ feet, which do not have protective pads like those of dogs and cats. If you place your rabbit in a wire cage, be sure to layer the floor with cardboard or other material. Place a cardboard box or “rabbit condo” in the cage so the bunny has a comfortable place to hide, and respect your animal’s need for quiet time (rabbits usually sleep during the day and night, becoming playful at dawn and dusk).

When rabbits are kept in a cage, they need to be let out for several hours each day for exercise. Aside from running and jumping, rabbits also enjoy exploring their surroundings. This is an ideal time to play and interact with your rabbit. Make sure that he has a safe area to play and explore.

Bunny Bathrooms

Just like cats, rabbits can easily learn to use a litter box. Place a litter box in the cage to encourage this behavior. If your rabbit roams freely through multiple rooms of your home, it’s a good idea to have litter boxes in several places. Many rabbits enjoy spending time relaxing in their litter box, so make sure that it is of ample size. For bedding (litter), stay away from cedar or other wood shavings, which may cause liver damage or trigger allergic reactions in rabbits. Also avoid clumping or dusty kitty litters, which can cause serious health problems if eaten. Instead, stick with organic litters made of paper, wood pulp, or citrus. Newspaper can work too, but may not be as absorbent. Be sure to put fresh hay in the litter box daily, as many rabbits like to have a snack while sitting in their litter box.

A Balanced Diet

Rabbits have complex digestive systems, so it’s very important that they receive a proper diet. Many health problems in rabbits are caused by foods that are incompatible with their digestive physiology. A basic rabbit diet should consist of the following foods:

Hay
Rabbits need hay—specifically, Timothy grass hay. Rabbits should have access to a constant supply of this hay, which aids their digestive systems and provides the necessary fiber to help prevent health problems such as hair balls, diarrhea, and obesity. Alfalfa hay, on the other hand, should only be given to adult rabbits in very limited quantities, if at all, because it’s high in protein, calcium, and calories.

Vegetables
In addition to hay, the basic diet of an adult rabbit should consist of leafy, dark green vegetables such as romaine and leaf lettuces, parsley, cilantro, collard greens, arugula, escarole, endive, dandelion greens, and others. Variety is important, so feed your rabbit three different vegetables at a time. When introducing new veggies to a rabbit’s diet, try just one at a time and keep quantities limited.


Fruits and Treats
While hay and vegetables are the basis of a healthy diet, rabbits also enjoy treats. Cartoons and other fictional portrayals of rabbits would lead us to believe that carrots are the basis of a healthy rabbit diet. Many rabbits enjoy carrots, but they are a starchy vegetable and should only be given sparingly as a treat. Other treats your rabbit might enjoy are apples (without stems or seeds), blueberries, papaya, strawberries, pears, peaches, plums, or melon. Extra-sugary fruits like bananas, grapes, and raisins are good too, but should be given on a more limited basis.

Foods to Avoid
With such sensitive digestive systems, there are a number of foods that rabbits should avoid eating. These include iceberg lettuce, tomatoes, cabbage, corn, beans, peas, potatoes, beets, onions, rhubarb, bamboo, seeds, grains, and many others. Also, don’t feed your rabbit chocolate, candy, anything moldy, or most human foods. If you are not sure about a certain food, ask your rabbit’s veterinarian.

Pellets
If you choose to make pellets a part of your rabbit’s diet, it is best to use them as a supplement to the dark green, leafy vegetables, not as a substitute. These pellets should only be given in small quantities (1/8 -1/4 cup per five pounds of body weight per day, spread out over two daily feedings). Also, make sure to purchase Timothy-based pellets. Many brands of rabbit feed contain seeds, corn, and other foods that are too high in calories to be the basis for a healthy rabbit’s diet.

Water
Rabbits should always have an ample supply of fresh water available. Be sure to change your rabbit’s water at least once each day. Water can be kept in a sipper bottle or bowl. If you use a sipper bottle, watch new rabbits to make sure they know how to use the bottles, and clean bottles daily so the tubes don’t get clogged. If you use a bowl, make sure that the bowl is heavy enough to avoid tipping and spilling.

Chew on This

Chewing is part of a rabbit’s natural behavior, but it doesn’t have to be destructive. To keep rabbits active and amused, you may want to put untreated wood blocks or cardboard in their cages. Bowls, balls, and rings made of willow wood are big hits with many rabbits and can be purchased online or in specialty stores. You can also use paper-towel rolls, toilet-paper rolls, and other chewable cardboard materials that can be tossed in the trash once they’ve served their purpose. Avoid objects with sharp edges, loose parts, or soft rubber that rabbits could chew into pieces and swallow.

Handle With Care

Rabbits are fragile animals who must be handled carefully. Their bones are so delicate that the muscles in their powerful hind legs can easily overcome the strength of their skeletons. As a result, if not properly restrained, struggling rabbits can break their own spines.

To pick up your rabbit, place one hand underneath the front of the rabbit and the other hand underneath his back side, lifting him carefully with both hands and bringing him against your body. Never let a rabbit’s body hang free, never lift by the stomach, and never pick a rabbit up by his ears.

Don’t forget that rabbits are prey animals and many will not enjoy being picked up. Be sure to go slowly with your rabbit and practice. Let your rabbit get accustomed to being handled.

Rabbits groom each other around the eyes, ears, top of the nose, top of the head, and down the back, so they’ll enjoy it if you pet them on their heads. Like any animal, each rabbit will have an individual preference about where he likes to be touched. Rabbits lack the ability to vomit or cough up hairballs like cats, so try to remove loose fur when you have the opportunity to do so. Simply petting or brushing your rabbit for a few minutes each day should remove most of the excess fur. Some rabbit breeds, such as angoras, have extra grooming needs because of their distinctive coats.

What’s Up, Doc?

Just like cats and dogs, rabbits need to receive proper medical care, including annual check-ups. While there are plenty of veterinarians who are able to treat cats and dogs, the number of veterinarians able to treat rabbits is much smaller. It is extremely important that any veterinarian treating a rabbit has experience with rabbits. Many veterinarians who treat rabbits will be called “exotics” veterinarians, meaning that they treat a number of non-traditional pets. Make sure that you have a regular, rabbit-savvy veterinarian as well as a listing of emergency clinics in your area that treat rabbits.

Fix That Bunny

Spaying or neutering your rabbit is very important. Aside from preventing unwanted litters of kits, spaying or neutering has health and behavior benefits. Neutering males eliminates the risk of testicular cancer and can reduce aggression and territory-marking behaviors. Female rabbits have extremely high rates of reproductive cancers as they get older, but spaying them can eliminate those potential problems.

I Need a Friend

Rabbits are social animals and most will be much happier as a part of a pair or trio than on their own. If you don’t have a rabbit yet, consider adopting a bonded pair instead of a single rabbit. Most animal shelters and rabbit rescue groups have pairs available for adoption. If you already have a rabbit, you should consider adding another one to the family. Local rabbit groups can usually find a good match for your rabbit and help with the introduction and bonding process.

When thinking about adding a rabbit to your family, please remember that rabbits are not toys and they are typically not appropriate pets for children. Rabbits are complex creatures—socially, psychologically, and physiologically. They require a great deal of special care and supervision. If you make the decision to add rabbits to your family, please don’t buy from a pet store; instead, adopt from your local animal shelter or rabbit adoption group.

Courtesy of
www.hsus.org
Animal Sheltering Magazine






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rabbit care

the best basics of good rabbit feeding

Cat McIntire

Proper nutrition is essential for good health & longevity. Rabbits need hay, a good high fiber pellet (free of nuts/seeds/dyed bits), fresh vegetables, and clean water. If your rabbit is allowed to go without food for too long, a serious condition called enteritis can occur. This is a shutdown of the intestinal tract caused by lack of food to digest.

HAY

Your rabbit should have a generous amount of hay available at all times. It’s nutritious and a vital source of fiber. You can make a big hay “nest” in bunny’s literbox and he’ll be happy as a clam. This will also encourage good potty habits and minimize hay mess. Don’t worry – bunny won’t eat anything he’s soiled! Commonly found hays are timothy, oat, oat/barley, and alfalfa. Alfalfa is good for growing buns up to one year of age, but is too high in calcium and fats for adult buns. You can often find fresher and cheaper hay at a feed and tack store that carries it by the bale. Ask if they sell it “by the flake” which is a good-sized chunk cut from a bale. You can also inquire at exotic vet’s offices, they sometimes carry hay for sale. Keep it cool and dry in a trash can or storage container stored where it won’t get wet or moldy. Never feed moldy hay to a rabbit, it can sicken them and even cause death.

PELLETS

Avoid bargain pellets and “fiesta blends” containing corn/nuts/seeds/etc. The rabbit physiology isn’t built to process the high doses of fats and proteins contained in these mixes. These foods lack the proper nutrients needed by your rabbit and over the years can cause serious health problems resulting in obesity, compromised organ function, and subsequently a shortened lifespan. It’s the health equivalent of raising your child on a diet of nothing but fast food. (Be aware that some pet foods contain a preservative called ethoxyquin, (or BHT) which is a known cancer-causing agent.) A good pellet has a minimum fiber content of 25% and a maxmimum protein content of 14%. Pellets should be fed in limited measured amounts daily, varying by the weight of your rabbit, it’s breed, or health issues. Oxbow Brand makes an excellent pellet with formulas specialized by age. (Bunny Basics T for adults and Bunny Basics 15/23 for juveniles.) Two other widely used formulas are Purina Lab Rabbit and American Pet Diner. (APD also has 2 pellets: timothy and alfalfa). Brown’s brand is o.k. too.

FRESH GREENS

A daily serving of fresh veggies rounds out bunny’s nutritional needs. Always rinse produce before feeding, even if it’s organic. Start slowly, one small serving of one veggie at a time, adding more over a period of weeks. This will not only lessen the chances of loose stools from the introduction of fresh food to the diet, but will also tell you what your rabbit prefers and what might upset his tummy. Current guidelines suggest three different veggies per day, alternating combinations weekly to ensure a good coverage of vitamins. Opinions differ on carrots and fruits as they contain a lot of sugar. I view them as a snack food, to be given occasionally and in moderation. (one carrot, a slice or two of banana/apple/etc.) Your local Farmer’s Market is a great source for rabbit (and human!) veggies. It’s fresh picked so it lasts longer, and it’s usually a fraction of grocery store prices. My rabbits have eaten the following:

Cilantro/ Italian parsley/ Curly parsley/ Basil/ Mint/ Carrot tops/ Alfalfa /radish /clover /snow pea sprouts/ Wheat grass (especially when sick)/ Brussels sprouts/ Endive/ Red/ green/ romaine lettuce/ Radishes w/tops/ Spinach/ Watercress/ Tomatoes (remove ALL greens!)/ Collard/ mustard/ dandelion/ turnip greens/ Celery/ Beet tops/ Chard/ Kale/ Bok choy/ Broccoli/ Pea pods (the flat kind)/ Radicchio/ Gourmet baby greens mix.
NO ICEBERG OR OTHER LIGHT-LEAF LETTUCE, POTATO OR POTATO PEELS, RHUBARB, RAW BEANS OR CORN, OR ANYTHING OLD/SPOILED/MOLDY. A good feeding rule is: if you wouldn’t eat it, don’t feed it to your rabbit!

WATER

Always clean, always cool, always available. Use a heavy untippable crock or a sipper bottle – or both in case bunny manages to tip the “untippable” crock! Never allow your bun to drink water with algae in it. Check the sipper bottle each time you refill it to make sure it’s delivering. (Sometimes the little ball gets stuck and water can’t come out).

FRUIT

Banana/ Mango/ Pineapple/ Peach/ Apple/ Cherries/ Kiwi/ Watermelon/ Cantaloupe/ Berries/ Orange and other citrus/ Papaya. NO SEEDS OR PITS. Pineapple, mango, and papaya all contain a natural enxyme called Papain which is thought to break down/prevent hairballs. ALL FRUITS SHOULD BE GIVEN IN MODERATION.

TREAT FOODS

Most treat foods sold for rabbits are largely sugars and fats and should be avoided. Yogurt drops, seed/nut bars, corncobs, wafer snacks etc. are garbage foods. Stick to dried fruits devoid of extra sugar or sulfites. Carefresh has a dried apple treat. Brown’s has a crunchy alfalfa heart-shaped bisquit. We sell dried strawberries and bananas called “Just Fruit” at www.rabbitshop.com. Moderation is the key for any snack food.

Cat McIntire – Volunteer, Education & Adoptions

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